The Wine Institute

SAN FRANCISCO February 10, 2004 - California vintners crushed 2.94 million tons of wine type grapes from the 2003 harvest, down five percent from 2002's 3.10 million wine tons, according to the California Department of Food and Agriculture in its Preliminary Grape Crush Report released today. Red wine varieties accounted for the largest share of all grapes crushed at 1.64 million tons, down 10 percent from 2002, while white wine varieties totaled 1.30 million tons, up one percent from 2002. Average statewide price for all wine varieties was $524, a decrease of 2.5 percent from 2002's $538 average price. Chardonnay was again the leading grape crushed of the wine varieties, comprising nearly one-fifth of the winegrape volume, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon, French Colombard, Zinfandel and Merlot.

The total crush of wine, raisin and table grape varieties was 3.37 million tons, down 11 percent from 2002. While wine accounted for 2.94 million tons, raisin grapes totaled 350,858 tons, and table type varieties crushed were 70,368 tons. Of the total crush, about 12 percent or 396,000 tons are expected to be marketed as grape concentrate, though no information was provided by variety, type or district. The full report is online at http://www.nass.usda.gov/ca/ bul/crush/indexgcb.htm

Challenging winegrowing weather last year resulted in lighter than normal yields. Vintners continually adjusted their irrigation and pruning techniques to respond to unseasonable rain storms in the spring that affected the bloom and above-normal summer heat in the vineyards that caused some shatter in the fruit. Mid-August rain followed by mild temperatures created a stop-and-start mode for harvest. The erratic weather was Mother Nature's way of thinning the crop load, however vintners around the state are optimistic about the quality of the vintage.

In addition to the weather's effect on yields, industry experts at last month's Unified Symposium in Sacramento also pointed to the thousands of vine acres that have been removed in recent years, though some of that was made up by new bearing acreage.

"Vineyard removals, sales growth in both the U.S. and export markets and a relatively light crop are all helping to bring excess inventories back into line," said Bill Turrentine of Turrentine Wine Brokerage in San Anselmo. "The California wine business is moving into a much healthier supply-demand balance."

The 2.94 million tons in the 2003 total follows three years of state crushes above the three-million-ton mark for wine varieties. The light harvest produced small berries with intense flavor, which promises the production of a wide selection of high-quality wines.

Notes And Quotes On The 2003 Wine Vintage

Dan Goldfield, winemaker, Dutton-Goldfield Winery, Graton, Sonoma County

In Russian River Valley, 2003 was a year that tested the skills of both the winemakers and growers and will result in a great divergence in quality. Our difficult spring, with rain and hot weather during flowering, produced the smallest per-acre harvest of Pinot Noir for as long as we can remember. Another heat spell in mid-September created a frenzied beginning to harvest, with the well cared for and well picked vines being exceptionally intense. The quick late seasoning ripening made for a harvest where the winemaker's skills will be particularly apparent.

Kristin Belair, winemaker, Honig Vineyard and Winery, Rutherford, Napa Valley

Harvest is always a bit like a roller coaster ride, but this one has been more like the "Medusa" (one of those extreme, high "g" force roller coasters), complete with moments of exhilaration and extreme anxiety and the relief at the end that you actually survived the ride and the wines look really good.

Jim Unti, director of grape and wine management, Canandaigua Wine Company, Madera

Overall quality was fine, and yields were light in most cases. We had no surprises in the San Joaquin Valley. Everything came in as predicted. The growing season was reasonably long and dry.

Jan Garrod, vineyard manager, Cooper-Garrod Estate Vineyards, Saratoga, Santa Cruz Mountains

Mild summer temperatures allowed steady fruit development and a prolonged heat wave at the end of August pushed the early ripening whites and Syrah to harvest. We enjoyed fine quality and average yields. Our wonderful marine climate returned at September's end, allowing the Cabernets a longer hang time. The red fruit ripened slowly after that hot spell and didn't pin high sugars. By the end of October, all the vineyards were in. Our slower harvest brought fruit to the winery in small lots, allowing plenty of time for cold soaking, timely crushing and optimal pressing.

Richard Smith, owner/winegrower, Paraiso Vineyards, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County

The 2003 vinifera-growing year was challenging but ultimately rewarding. The spring in Monterey's Santa Lucia Highlands was wet with substantial late rain. Bloom time was hot with set less than normal and many small single-seeded berries. Summer brought temperate days (no extreme heat mid-season) with maturity lagging behind normal timing. Extra heat in September finished the crops on-time and with force. The result was small crops with intense color and flavor; the pH and balance of the juice arriving at the winery promise long-lived wines. Initial tastings point to a very good 2003 vintage, especially in Pinot Noir.

Harry Jansen, winemaker, Edna Valley Vineyard, San Luis Obispo

Wow! What a roller coaster ride this one was! From early bud break in January to rain during fruit set in May to really warm early August weather, the conditions were ripe for a hair-tearing affair in Edna Valley! An yet with very small berries and relatively light crop loads, assisted by moderate September and October conditions, 2003 turned out to be another high-quality vintage. I like the concentration of the peach and citrus of the Chardonnay and the ripe tannins and generous fruit of the Syrah, particularly. (And I get to keep my hair for another year!)

Leon Sobon, winemaker, Shenandoah Vineyards/Sobon Estate, Plymouth, Amador County

The season was generally easy, with no days over 90 degrees. Harvest started 10 days late and was well spread out, 98 percent finished by October 30. The rains started October 31. Spring frost caused early blooming varieties (Syrah, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Barbera) to be off 10-30%. Dry-farmed Zinfandel yields were -5 to +5% and dry-farmed Sangiovese were down 15%. Irrigated Zinfandel and Sangiovese were up as much as 10-20% respectively. Overall quality was mixed, though some wineries reported the best acid and pH balance since 1980.

Fred Nickel, winemaker, Brutocao Cellars, Hopland, Mendocino County

Damp spring, light set. It was perhaps the finest quality fruit across the board I have seen in 24 years! Consensus in Mendocino County is one of excitement.

Shannon Gunier, executive director, Lake County Winegrape Commission

Lake County Winegrape growers will remember the 2003 vintage as a roller coaster season that created some havoc in their vineyards. However, despite the rocky start to the season, the erratic weather conditions turned out to be great for fruit set. Lake County growers will view 2003 as another vintage year, with ripe, intense fruit.

Alexander McGeary, president, Shadow Mountain Vineyards & Winery, Warner Springs, San Diego County

With the heat turned on all summer long, and the humidity up 4 to 5%, powdery mildew compromised the sensitive Muscat Blanc harvest. Most revealing was that Merlot was the first to ripen, ten days before any of the whites. The majority of white varieties were 15% below average on yield; quality on these (Muscat, Viognier, Chenin Blanc) was good. All of the red varieties were above average on quality and quantity. Three new winery and vineyard blocks are joining our neighborhood of 3000-feet-and-above altitude. Arneis, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah appear to be the varieties of choice.

U.S. And California Grape Crush

Source: California figures: California Department of Food and Agriculture. U.S. figures: USDA Ð National Agricultural Statistics Services.
* Preliminary number

2003 California Winegrape Crush By Variety

Largest Red Wine Varieties (1)

Largest White Wine Varieties (1)

Source: California Department of Food and Agriculture. For a complete report on all winegrape varieties, go online to: http://www.nass.usda.gov/ca/bul/crush/indexgcb.htm

2003 California Winegrape Crush By District

Source: Wine Institute from California Dept. of Food and Agriculture. (1) Total of all percentages may not add up to 100% because of rounding.